Cut and rout round table top

Place the square panel with the visible side face down on a clean surface. Using two diagonal lines from the panel corners, determine the centre point. Drive a small nail into this point and then use a string compass to draw a circle with a diameter of 455 mm around this point. (This diameter is slightly larger than the table top (which will measure 450 mm) because you can only get the precise circular shape of the table edges by using the router and therefore need to leave a margin for routing the round edges.) A string compass consists of a knotted loop of string that is the same length as the circle radius (= half the diameter, in this case 227.5 mm). Draw the piece of string taut between the nail and a sharp pencil, and then use the pencil to trace the circular line on the panel.

Now secure the panel with clamp clips onto a firm working surface; use buffer blocks made from scrap pieces of wood to avoid leaving pressure marks on the workpiece. Using the jigsaw, cut the panel along the line. Then trim the table top to its final diameter of 450 mm with the router on the circle cutting guide and the straight bit.

Chamfer the table top edge

To give the table a more refined edge, chamfer the table top downwards at an angle to create a wide 45° bevel. Using clamp clips, secure the table top with the visible surface facing downwards (remembering to use buffer blocks) and carry out chamfering with the router on the circle cutting guide and the corresponding chamfering bit with thrust ring.

Draw and cut out the table legs

With a pencil, draw the outlines of the table legs on the leg panels, according to the specifications in our illustration. Then use the drill and 8-mm wood drill bit and 20-mm Forstner bit to make holes in all of the inside corners so that you can cut the corners cleanly with the jigsaw. Make sure that the holes do not intersect with the pencil lines - the lines should form tangents with the holes. You can now cut out the table legs with the jigsaw.

Finally, assemble the table legs by applying wood glue to the insides of the connection piece and press these together until the glue is dry.

Join the table top and table frame

Place the table top with the top facing down on a clean surface into which you can drill. Align the pedestal frame (with the legs pointing upwards) so that it is centrally positioned below the table top. Now use a pencil to draw the cross-shaped outline of the top of the frame onto the table top. Then remove the frame again.

Using the drill and 4-mm wood drill bit, make a hole through the table top in the centre of each of the four arms of the cross shape. Now turn the table top so that the top is face up. You can countersink the holes using the drill and countersink bit (a conical tapered drill bit) to match the screw head size.

Place the pedestal frame on the floor and arrange the table top (with the visible side and countersunk holes facing upwards) on top. Now fasten the table top to the frame using the cordless screwdriver and flat head screws (4 x 45 mm). The basic table is complete.

Rout the table rim

To make the outer edge of the table rim, follow the procedure described above for the table top in step 1.

Once you have routed the outer edge to the precise diameter of 450 mm, draw the inner edge of the rim with a diameter of 340 mm (that is, with a radius of 170 mm) on the table rim panel, once again using the string compass.

Carve out the inside edge of the table rim completely using the router. To do this, you must screw the table rim panel to the centre of a backing board measuring approximately 550 x 550 mm.

On one side of the backing board, draw the inner and outer edges of the table rim; on the other side of the backing board, draw only the outer edge of the table rim, once again using the string compass from the centre of the panel. Secure the table rim panel with the traced inner edge facing upwards on the side of the backing board showing only the outer edge of the rim.

Using the cordless screwdriver, fasten the table rim panel from below with screws through to the other side of the backing board; this way, screw holes will not be visible on top of the table rim. Insert the screws far enough outside on the rim so they will not block the path of the router head later when you are routing the rim. You must also fasten the inner part of the table rim with screws: the circle cutting guide is placed in the centre of this part and must therefore also be secured at the end of the final routing process.

Once everything has been secured with screws, use the router on the circle cutting guide to carve out the inner section with the straight bit. Complete the routing process in several steps rather than just one: work on about 4 mm at a time. Once this is finished, release the table rim from the backing board with the cordless screwdriver.

Mount the table rim on the table top

Using the drill and the 3.5-mm wood drill bit, make six holes from below at a distance of 20 mm from the bottom table edge. Countersink the holes. Now lay the table rim on the table top so that all the edges are flush and secure it in place with clamp clips (remembering to use the buffer blocks as usual). Mount the table rim through the predrilled holes using the cordless screwdriver and screws (4 x 35 mm).

Sand wood surfaces

First chamfer all edges with sanding paper with a grit of 120 or 180 at a 45° angle to create a small bevel. Sand all visible surfaces in the direction of the wood grain, first with coarse sanding paper (grit of 180) and then with fine sanding paper (grit of up to 240).

Damp sponge the surfaces afterwards to wipe off the dust. Some loose wood fibres may protrude while the wood is drying. You can remove these with sanding paper with a grit of 180. The wood is now ready for surface treatment. Little tip: Make sure that the sanding paper is sharp enough to remove the wood fibres properly, not just flatten them.

Surface treatment

First read the wax manufacturer's safety and handling instructions thoroughly. Make sure the room you are working in is well ventilated and not used for smoking, eating or drinking.

Saturate a paintbrush or fabric roll with wood wax. Wipe off any excess with a cloth. Observe the drying times specified by the manufacturer.

If you want to apply a second coat of wax, you need to sand the surface between coats using sanding paper with a grit of 240. Once again, you must always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Repeat the application as described in the section above. Once the wax has dried, polish the surface with a soft brush until it gleams.